The kids were wearing aprons over their jeans. When it wasn’t their turn to butcher, they gossiped and texted friends photos of the dead pig, which was splayed out on a jigsaw of white cutting boards, its head sitting nearby, gazing on; its eyelids had been sliced off during an inspection for parasites. On a counter, industrial plastic bins were marked: bellies, loin/chops, shoulders/roasts, hams, bones/trotters/hocks. The students took turns removing the pig’s feet and breaking the animal down into four “primals”: shoulder, loin, belly and ham. Then Davis stepped in to show them how to butcher it into the cuts they’d seen at the grocery store and the ones they hadn’t. She picked up a leg, peeling off the skin with her blade, removing the “H-bone,” and then turned it toward her students. “Instead of muscling through this,” she said, “I’m going to use the tip of my knife to feather through the fascia,” the pig’s connective tissue. Davis held the knife in a butcher’s grip and delicately separated the muscle groups to reveal a roast. “Now it’s your turn.” 孩子们牛仔裤外面套着围裙。还未轮到他们下手时,孩子们吱吱喳喳地给朋友发短信照片。照片是肉案上的一头杀了的猪,用电锯割成骨肉分离;旁边放着猪头,眼睛睁着,眼睑被割了下来作寄生虫检查。案台上有一些塑料盆,分别标注:腩肉,上肉/排骨肉,肩颈肉/嫩肉,臀肉,骨头/前脚/后腿。 学生们动手砍下猪的四蹄,大卸成四块:肩颈肉、上肉、腩肉和臀肉,这时候Davis上前教他们怎样把猪肉切成他们在肉店里见到的,以及见不到的那种样子。她拿起一条猪腿,用利刀去皮,把腿骨拆下来,然后对她的学生说,“现在我要用刀尖轻轻地穿入筋膜里面,”指猪肉里的结缔组织。Davis的手灵活地用刀,精巧地把腱肉割开,露出了嫩肉,说:“现在到你们啦。” |
retro 发表于 2013-4-29 09:16 AM
《The Proper Way to Eat a Pig·吃猪肉的正道》刊登在4月4日《纽约时报·杂志版》上,作者是Marnie Hanel ...
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